Barking Gecko — Fact Sheet
Underwoodisaurus milii · Barking Gecko
📋 At a glance
| Adult size | 12-16.5 cm |
| Lifespan | 15-20 years |
| Legal | CITES III; EU C; National rules also apply (2026-09-17). |
| Origin | This Australian species occupies varied southern habitats, including rocky woodland and shrubland. |
| Activity | Nocturnal |
| Difficulty | Intermediate |
🏠 Enclosure
- A ventilated 60 × 45 × 45 cm enclosure is a useful starting point for one adult.
- Solitary housing avoids breeding pressure and competition; never combine adult males.
- Quarantine acquisitions and use individual feeding and weight records before considering any pairing.
🪨 Enclosure furniture
- Use about 5–8 cm of compactable soil and sand, low anchored branches, cork and secure rock crevices.
- Put heavy rocks on the base, never on excavatable substrate.
- Include dry and damp shelters at suitable temperatures and enough cover to move between them unseen.
💡 Lighting
- Provide a regular 12-hour light cycle and complete darkness at night.
- Offer low-intensity UVB over part of the enclosure, with fully shaded retreats.
- Measure exposure at the animal’s level and follow the lamp’s distance guidance; nocturnal activity does not mean the animal must be deprived of optional daytime exposure.
🌡️ Temperature
- Provide a modest warm surface at 28–30 °C and cool retreats around 22–25 °C; an ordinary night drop to 18–22 °C is suitable.
- Use thermostatic control and separate air and surface measurements.
- Do not heat the whole enclosure to 30 °C.
- A seasonal breeding rest requires a separate, health-assessed plan; do not use refrigerator methods described for other species.
💧 Humidity & water
- Aim for roughly 40–50% general humidity with a permanently available moist hide and fresh water in a shallow bowl.
- Lightly wet one area as needed while letting exposed surfaces dry.
- Good airflow and access to a humid retreat matter more than forcing a single humidity reading all day.
🪳 Diet
Staple foods — follow the feeding schedule:
- Offer varied gut-loaded crickets, roaches and other suitably sized insects.
- Feed adults every 2–3 days, young animals more frequently, and adjust portions to condition.
- Fatty larvae should remain occasional treats.
- Remove biting prey before leaving the animal overnight.
- Choose prey no wider than the space between the eyes; offer smaller items if swallowing looks difficult.
In moderation:
- Keep fatty larvae occasional and adjust portions to body condition.
Avoid:
- Pesticide-contaminated food, spoiled leftovers and unverified wild-collected foods.
Supplements:
- Dust with calcium and use a reptile multivitamin matched to UVB and label instructions; do not put vitamins routinely in drinking water.
- With effective measured UVB, use plain calcium for routine dusting and obtain D3 from a coordinated, label-directed vitamin plan; without effective UVB, dietary D3 needs deliberate provision.
- Do not stack D3 products.
💤 Seasonal rest
- Only consider planned seasonal cooling for healthy, established adults after veterinary advice. Do not cool juveniles, new arrivals, thin or ill animals. Check weight, hydration, parasite status and equipment first; monitor weight, behaviour and temperatures throughout and stop for veterinary review if condition declines.
🩺 Health — warning signs
- Weight loss, retained toe shed, swollen joints and persistent refusal of food need prompt husbandry review and a reptile veterinarian.
- Barking or tail waving signals disturbance; withdraw and let the animal settle.
- Never pull stuck shed or force a defensive gecko to eat.
- Weak jaws and poor grip can indicate metabolic bone disease; repeated straining or abdominal swelling may indicate obstruction or egg binding.
- These require veterinary diagnosis, not extra supplements or home extraction.